LESSON 05 · DIGITAL FOUNDATIONS

From Paper to Pixels

On paper the surface is decided for you the moment you pick up the sheet. Digitally you have to decide it yourself, before the first mark: how many pixels, which colour space, which file format. Get those three right at the start and everything downstream works; get them wrong and you find out weeks later when the picture prints blurry.

40 min

TIME

Beginner

LEVEL

Photoshop + ArtRage 6

SOFTWARE

What you'll learn

Set a canvas in pixels and explain what PPI actually changes

Choose a starting resolution for screen work and for print

Explain what a colour space is and why sRGB is the safe default

Match each file format to the job it is good at

Distinguish saving a working file from exporting a finished image

Set up a folder and naming system you can still navigate in a year

Before you start

Finish first: L1, L2, L3, L4

  • Photoshop and ArtRage 6 both installed and opening
  • A folder on your computer where your artwork will live
  • One finished drawing on paper you would like to redraw digitally

WATCH

Watch this first

Exploring File Formats in Photoshop - Day 3

PHLEARN — Covers PSD vs JPG/PNG/TIFF, saving layered work vs exporting - exactly L5's 'From Paper to Pixels' content, on a current Photoshop build. The 2011 Ctrl+Paint original shows a 15-year-old UI.

THE LESSON

Pixels are the only unit that is real

A digital image is a grid of coloured squares. That grid has a width and a height in pixels, and that is the whole truth of the file. Everything else — inches, centimetres, PPI — is a note attached to the file saying how big those pixels should be printed. Changing the PPI number alone does not add a single pixel of detail.

PPI matters at exactly one moment: printing. At 300 pixels per inch, printed dots are small enough that your eye reads a smooth image, so 300 PPI is the standard for anything going on paper. That is where A4 at 2480 x 3508 pixels comes from: 8.27 inches x 300, by 11.7 inches x 300. If a picture is only ever going to be looked at on a screen, PPI is irrelevant and the pixel dimensions are all you need to think about.

In Photoshop this is File > New, and you type the pixel dimensions directly. Check the units say Pixels before you type. To check or change an existing canvas, use Image > Image Size.

Choose your resolution once, at the start

Making an image smaller is nearly free; making it bigger is not. Scaling down throws away pixels you had. Scaling up invents pixels that were never there, and invented pixels look soft and mushy no matter which method you use. So the rule is: start at or above the largest size you might ever need.

Sensible starting points. Screen-only work, such as a piece for a school project or something you want to post: 2000 to 3000 pixels on the long edge. Anything you might want printed: build it at print size and 300 PPI from the beginning — A4 at 2480 x 3508, A5 at 1748 x 2480. Your display is 1920 x 1080, so a 2480-pixel-wide canvas is bigger than your screen. That is normal. You will be working zoomed out most of the time, which is a good habit anyway.

There is a ceiling, though: every extra pixel costs memory and makes brushes feel sluggish, so 'just make it enormous' is not a strategy.

Colour space: the same number, a different colour

A colour in a file is stored as three numbers. The colour space is the rulebook that says what actual colour those numbers mean. Hand the same numbers to two different rulebooks and you get two visibly different colours — this is why an image sometimes looks vivid in one program and washed out in another.

Two rulebooks matter to you. sRGB is the narrow, universal one: it is what web browsers, phones and most screens assume. Adobe RGB is wider — it can describe more saturated greens and cyans — and it is used in print work. Your Artist 12 can show 99% of sRGB and 97% of Adobe RGB, with a Delta E under 1.2, so you own a screen that can be trusted in either.

Work in sRGB unless you have a specific reason not to. Almost everything you make will be looked at on a screen, and sRGB is the space that survives the journey to somebody else's phone unchanged. If you ever do need to change the space of an existing file in Photoshop, that is Edit > Convert to Profile, which converts the colours to keep them looking the same, rather than Edit > Assign Profile, which just swaps the rulebook and shifts every colour in the image.

Formats: working files and delivery files

Split every format you meet into two piles. Working files hold everything you need to keep editing: .psd in Photoshop and .ptg in ArtRage both store your layers, so opening one puts you back exactly where you stopped. A .ptg goes further: it records how much paint is on the canvas and how wet it is, which is what lets ArtRage's oils behave like oils after you reopen the file.

Delivery files are flat. A .png is lossless, keeps transparency, and is the right choice for line art, flat colour and anything with text. A .jpg throws away detail to make the file small, and a bit more every time you resave it — fine for the version you send someone, terrible as a place to keep working. ArtRage exports raster images via File > Export As Image in JPEG, PSD, BMP, TIFF, GIF and PNG.

That PSD option is the bridge between your two programs. ArtRage both imports and exports PSD while keeping layers, blend modes and groups — so a painting can start in ArtRage, move to Photoshop for the parts Photoshop is better at, and come back, without collapsing into a single flat image.

Saving is not exporting

The ArtRage manual puts it plainly: 'Always use Save to save your paintings, don't be tempted to use Export as if it was Save.' Export makes a copy in a flat format for other people to look at. Save preserves the thing you are actually building. Export a .png, close the program, and everything that made the file editable is gone.

So: save the working file constantly, and export only when you want to show someone. Give both the same base name, and keep versions rather than overwriting — dragon_v01.psd, dragon_v02.psd, dragon_v03.psd. Version files cost almost nothing and are the only reliable way back when a change ruins a drawing. One folder per project, exports in a subfolder called 'export'. Do it now, while you own three files, not in a year when you own three hundred.

Export is not Save

The ArtRage manual warns: 'Always use Save to save your paintings, don't be tempted to use Export as if it was Save.' The same applies in Photoshop. If the only copy of a piece is a .png or a .jpg, your layers, your paint and your ability to change anything are already gone.

PRACTICE · 30 MIN

Build your studio folder and three canvases

  1. Create a folder called Artwork, and inside it one folder per project. Inside your first project folder, add a subfolder called export.
  2. In Photoshop, File > New: create a screen canvas at 3000 x 2000 px, sRGB. Save it as project01_v01.psd.
  3. File > New again: create a print canvas at A4, 2480 x 3508 px, 300 PPI, sRGB. Save it as project01_print_v01.psd.
  4. Open Image > Image Size on the print file. Change only the PPI number to 72 and watch the pixel dimensions stay the same. Then undo it — this is the test that proves PPI on its own is only a note.
  5. In ArtRage, create a painting the same size as your screen canvas and make a few oil strokes on it. Save it as a .ptg.
  6. From ArtRage, use File > Export As Image to export a PNG into your export folder, then reopen the .ptg and confirm your paint is still wet and editable.
  7. Take the paper drawing you chose and decide, in writing, which of the three canvases you would redraw it on and why.
  8. Save a copy of the screen canvas as project01_v02.psd so you have started versioning before you have anything to lose.

Done when: You have a folder structure with an export subfolder, three saved working files with version numbers, one exported PNG, and a written sentence explaining your resolution choice for the paper drawing.

Practice files

Download these and work along with the lesson.

Canvas Setup Cheat Sheet

A4 printable PDF, one page. Table 1: common canvas presets with pixel dimensions and intended use — screen work 3000 x 2000, A4 print 2480 x 3508 at 300 PPI, A5 print 1748 x 2480, A3 print 3508 x 4961, display-native 1920 x 1080. Table 2: file formats in two columns, Working (.psd, .ptg — what each stores) and Delivery (.png, .jpg, .tif — strengths and the one thing each is bad at), including the note that ArtRage exports JPEG, PSD, BMP, TIFF, GIF and PNG. Bottom strip in bold: the ArtRage manual quote about Save versus Export, plus the naming convention project_vNN.

Starter Canvas Pack

A zip containing four empty but correctly configured files: screen_3000x2000_sRGB.psd, a4_print_2480x3508_300ppi_sRGB.psd, a5_print_1748x2480_300ppi_sRGB.psd, and screen_3000x2000.ptg for ArtRage. Each PSD contains three named layers — 'sketch', 'line', 'colour' — plus a locked bottom layer named 'background (white)'. Include a plain-text readme.txt listing each file's dimensions, PPI, colour space and intended use.

CHECK YOURSELF

Can you answer these?

Answer out loud first, then open each one to compare.

Can you explain what changing PPI alone does and does not do to an image?

It changes nothing about the image itself. The pixel grid is the whole truth of the file; PPI is only a note attached to it saying how big those pixels should be printed, so changing the number alone adds no detail. You can prove it with Image > Image Size in Photoshop: change only the PPI from 300 to 72 and the pixel dimensions stay identical. PPI matters at exactly one moment, which is printing, where 300 PPI is standard because the dots are then small enough for your eye to read as a smooth image.

Can you say why scaling a picture up looks worse than scaling one down?

Scaling down throws away pixels you actually had, so everything left is real detail. Scaling up has to invent pixels that were never there, and no method can invent detail nobody captured — it can only guess from neighbouring pixels, which reads as soft and mushy. That is why you decide resolution once, at the start, and build at or above the largest size you might ever need: 2000 to 3000 px on the long edge for screen work, or A4 at 2480 x 3508 and 300 PPI for anything that might be printed.

Can you explain in one sentence what a colour space is, and why sRGB is the default here?

A colour space is the rulebook that says what actual colour the three numbers stored for each pixel mean — hand the same numbers to a different rulebook and you get a visibly different colour, which is why an image can look vivid in one program and washed out in another. sRGB is the default here because it is the narrow, universal one that browsers, phones and most screens assume, so your work survives the trip to somebody else's device unchanged. Adobe RGB is wider and belongs to print work; your Artist 12 covers 99% of sRGB and 97% of Adobe RGB, so it can be trusted in either. If you do need to change an existing file, Edit > Convert to Profile keeps the colours looking the same, while Edit > Assign Profile only swaps the rulebook and shifts every colour.

Can you name which of your files are working files and which are delivery files, and why it matters?

Your .psd and .ptg files are working files; your .png and .jpg exports are delivery files. Working files hold your layers, and a .ptg goes further by recording how much paint is on the canvas and how wet it is, which is what lets ArtRage's oils still behave like oils after you reopen the file. Delivery files are flat — a .png gives you pixels back but not the thing you were building, and a .jpg discards a little more detail every time you resave it. It matters because, as the ArtRage manual puts it, 'Always use Save to save your paintings, don't be tempted to use Export as if it was Save': if the only copy of a piece is an export, your ability to change anything is already gone.

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