LESSON 12 · DRAWING FUNDAMENTALS, DIGITALLY
Perspective II
Three-point perspective, ellipses, and the beginnings of a real environment. Ellipses get most of the room here on purpose: circles in perspective are the single most commonly botched skill in self-taught drawing, and getting them right instantly makes wheels, cups, bottles, barrels and eyes stop looking wrong.
60 min
TIME
Advanced
LEVEL
Photoshop or ArtRage
SOFTWARE
What you'll learn
Add a third vanishing point for verticals and know when the scene needs one
Identify the major and minor axis of any ellipse
Align an ellipse's minor axis with the axis of the cylinder it belongs to
Judge the degree of an ellipse from its distance to the horizon
Draw through ellipses with the whole arm instead of the wrist
Divide a plane in perspective using the diagonal method
Before you start
Finish first: L11
- A mug and a bottle on the desk in front of you
- The L11 grid template, or a fresh 6000x2400 canvas
- Stabilization set low from L6 - you want the wobble visible
WATCH
Watch this first
PERSPECTIVE BASICS III: ELLIPSES
moderndayjames — The best free explanation of the minor axis rule, which is the whole game with ellipses.
3 Point Perspective for Beginners
Winged Canvas — A short, unfussy introduction to the third vanishing point without drowning you in construction lines.
THE LESSON
The third point is for looking up and looking down
In one- and two-point perspective, verticals stay vertical. That is only true while you are looking straight ahead. Tilt your head up at a tower and those verticals visibly lean towards each other; tilt it down from a rooftop and they splay apart below you. Give them a vanishing point of their own and you have three-point perspective.
The third vanishing point sits far above the picture for a worm's-eye view and far below it for a bird's-eye view. How far decides how dramatic the shot feels. Bring it close and the building appears to fall over. Push it a long way out and you get a mild, believable lean, which is what most illustration wants.
Cone-of-vision discipline matters even more here. Three-point drawings collapse into nonsense faster than two-point ones when the points are crowded, so work on an oversized canvas, keep the subject in the middle, and crop.
An ellipse is a circle that turned away from you
Almost everything cylindrical in the world - wheels, cups, cans, tins, barrels, pipes, tyres, the iris of an eye, the top of a hat - is a circle sitting in space. Draw those circles badly and the entire object looks broken, no matter how good the shading is. Two terms make all of it manageable.
The major axis is the longest line you can draw across the ellipse. The minor axis is the shortest, and it always crosses the major axis at ninety degrees, dead in the middle. Every ellipse has exactly one of each, and if you can place those two lines correctly the ellipse itself is easy.
Here is the rule that fixes most people's cylinders permanently: the minor axis of the ellipse lies along the axis of the cylinder. If you are drawing a mug standing upright on a table, the mug's axis is vertical, so the minor axis of the rim ellipse is vertical too - which means the major axis is horizontal. If you tip the mug over at thirty degrees, the whole ellipse rotates with it so the minor axis still runs down the middle of the mug. Draw the axis line through the object first, then build the ellipse around it. Do not draw the ellipse and hope.
Degree, and the four errors everyone makes
The degree of an ellipse is how open it is, from a flat line at zero to a full circle at ninety. Degree is decided by how far the circle is from your eye level. Hold a mug up to your eyes and the rim flattens to almost a line. Lower it to the desk and it opens up. That gives you a check you can run on any drawing: on a vertical cylinder, the end that is further from the horizon must be the more open ellipse. If the bottom of your glass is narrower than its rim, the glass is wrong.
Four errors account for nearly all bad ellipses. First, pointy ends - an ellipse curves continuously and has no corners, but a wobbly hand produces something shaped like a lemon. Second, tilting the ellipse to match the edge of the box it sits in, instead of keeping the minor axis on the object's axis. Third, drawing both ends of a cylinder at the same degree. Fourth, drawing from the wrist, which physically cannot produce a smooth long curve.
The fix for the last one is the ghosting habit from Lesson 6. Hover the pen and swing the shape three or four times without touching the glass, moving from the elbow and shoulder, then commit. Draw through the ellipse - go round two or three times in one continuous motion rather than trying to close it in a single careful lap. The overlapping loops look scruffy and are far more accurate, and you can always put a clean pass on a layer above.
Using the software as a marking scheme, not a crutch
Photoshop can draw a perfect ellipse. Take the Elliptical Marquee, drag one out, then use Select > Transform Selection to rotate it, and Edit > Stroke to lay a line on the selection edge. That is a genuinely useful tool - but not for making your ellipses. Use it to mark your homework.
Draw your ellipse freehand on one layer. Then, on a layer above in a different colour, drop a perfect marquee ellipse over it and look at the difference. You will usually find that your freehand version is slightly asymmetrical and that its minor axis is a few degrees off. That feedback loop, run twenty times, will teach your arm more in a week than tracing perfect ellipses will teach it in a year.
Dividing space: the diagonal method
You also need a way to repeat things evenly as they recede - fence posts, windows, floor tiles, ceiling lights. Even spacing in the world is not even spacing on the page.
Draw the first rectangle in perspective, say the first section of fence. Draw both diagonals across it; where they cross is the perspective centre of that rectangle, not the measured centre. Now draw a line from the top of the near post, through that crossing point, and continue it until it meets the ground line. That point is where the next post goes. Repeat and the spacing is correct all the way to the vanishing point, with no measuring at all.
That one construction, plus boxes, plus ellipses, is enough to build a room, a street or a workshop. Everything else in environment drawing is detail hung on those three things.
Axis first, ellipse second
If you take one thing from this lesson: draw the axis line through the cylinder before you draw either ellipse. Nearly every wrong-looking wheel, cup or bottle in a beginner drawing is an ellipse whose minor axis was never decided.
PRACTICE · 45 MIN
Fifty ellipses and one honest mug
- On a fresh layer, draw a horizontal line for the horizon across the middle of the canvas.
- Draw twenty-five vertical axis lines scattered above and below it. For each one, draw an ellipse centred on the line with its minor axis on that line, opening up as it gets further from the horizon.
- Now draw twenty-five more on axis lines tilted at random angles. Same rule: the minor axis stays on the line.
- Ghost every one of them three times before committing, and draw through each ellipse two full laps.
- On a new layer in a second colour, drop perfect Elliptical Marquee strokes over five of your ellipses and compare. Note whether your error is in the degree or in the axis angle.
- Put your real mug on the desk below eye level. Construct it: axis line, rim ellipse, base ellipse more open than the rim, walls, then the handle built as a flattened tube.
- Tip the mug on its side and construct it again from the same viewpoint.
Done when: Fifty ellipses drawn through with the arm, five of them checked against perfect ones, and two constructed mugs whose base ellipse is visibly more open than the rim.
Practice files
Download these and work along with the lesson.
Ellipse Drill Sheet
3000x2000 px PSD, 300 dpi. BACKGROUND #F2F0EC locked. Layer AXES (locked, 40% opacity) containing a horizon line across the vertical centre plus 50 short axis lines in #C0392B - 25 vertical, 25 at assorted tilts between 10 and 80 degrees - scattered evenly above and below the horizon. Empty layer ELLIPSES above it, and empty layer CHECK above that. Bottom-left corner carries a printed legend showing a labelled major axis, minor axis and four degree examples at 15, 35, 60 and 85 degrees.
Three-Point Grid Template
6000x4000 px PSD, 300 dpi. Horizon line at y=1200. Vanishing points at x=300 and x=5700 on the horizon, plus a third vanishing point at x=3000, y=6800 - off the canvas, represented by a 24-ray fan converging downward. All rays 1 px #4A6FA5, grouped as GRID at 25% opacity and locked. Empty layers BLOCK-IN and LINE above. Crop guides marking a 2400x3000 portrait frame centred horizontally.
CHECK YOURSELF
Can you answer these?
Answer out loud first, then open each one to compare.
Can you point to the major and minor axis of an ellipse in someone else's drawing?
The major axis is the longest line you can draw across the ellipse; the minor axis is the shortest, and it always crosses the major axis at ninety degrees, dead in the middle. Every ellipse has exactly one of each. The reason to be able to find them in someone else's drawing is that it is the fastest way to diagnose a wrong-looking cylinder: the minor axis of the ellipse must lie along the axis of the cylinder, so if the rim of a mug is tilted to match the edge of the table instead of running down the middle of the mug, you have found the error.
Can you say, without looking it up, which end of an upright glass has the more open ellipse and why?
The bottom. Degree — how open an ellipse is, from a flat line to a full circle — is decided by how far the circle is from your eye level, so on a vertical cylinder the end further from the horizon is always the more open one. A glass standing below your eye level has its base further from the horizon than its rim, so the base ellipse is rounder. If the base of your glass is narrower than its rim, the glass is wrong, and that is a check you can run on any drawing without a reference.
Can you draw a fifteen-centimetre ellipse on screen using your shoulder rather than your wrist?
This is an arm test, not a knowledge test. Ghost the shape three or four times on hover, moving from the elbow and shoulder rather than the wrist, then commit and draw through it — two or three continuous laps rather than one careful closing pass. The overlapping loops look scruffy and are far more accurate, and you can lay a clean pass over them on a layer above. You have passed when the curve is continuous with no pointy lemon ends, which is the giveaway of a wrist-drawn ellipse.
Can you find the perspective centre of a rectangle and use it to space the next object correctly?
Draw both diagonals across the first rectangle in perspective; where they cross is the perspective centre, which is not the measured centre. Then draw a line from the top of the near post through that crossing point and continue it until it meets the ground line — that is where the next post goes. Repeat and the spacing stays correct all the way to the vanishing point with no measuring, which is what you need because even spacing in the world is not even spacing on the page.
Go deeper
Drawabox lessons
https://drawabox.com
Ctrl+Paint library
https://www.ctrlpaint.com/library
Drawspace
https://www.drawspace.com/
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Perspective I
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Gesture & Line of Action